notes and photos - 14 Dec 2004 to 30 January 2005 plane delay.
view of Mwenba Island. The Aga Khan has a hotel there, the only
inhabitants. The fan-like area is the reef with tidal movement
and very exotic fish and sea creatures. The blue bit between the
land and the island is 600 meters deep! Three weeks after, I crossed
that with a friend in an "Ungarao" - the dug-out canoe
with a triangular sail and went snorkeling at the right hand side
of the reef and snorkeled and walked on the reef at low tide,
discovering and inspecting a variety of sea creatures.
has not changed. Ndia Koo (Main Road) near Fort Jesus and surrounding
streets are block paved from European Union funding. The old streets
are looking much better.
is less hot and humid compared to Zanzibar.
Mombasa Kiswahili is different, example:
Zanzibar: Mimi na omba soda moja. (I request a soda - omba can
also mean beg)
Mombasa: Letiya soda moja. (Bring a soda)
You can see it is ordering in Mombasa whereas it is requesting
famous tusks on Moi Avenue
restaurant at Diani Beach, south of Mombasa. It is less congested
here than in Bamburi
with friends I went on the Tamarind Restaurant boat dinner cruise
in the creek. It was a wonderful experience. Since I spoke Zanzibari
style Kiswahili with the crew, they gave me extra Malindi halwa
and charged the local price, not the double tourist price.
The boat at the end of the pier on the creek.
Photo taken from the restaurant on the side of the hill.
It is owned by a Kenyan of English origins, third or fourth generation
there and speaks fluent Swahili.
day I bought Victoria (tangy fruit) and ate it with salt and red
chili powder. Also, I found zambaraho (Jamboora) and scoffed them.
And sweet mangoes, Ambay. Also, got a packet of Booya (red like
raspberry, sweet and tangy taste). Also, had madafs. And mishkaki
and swahili fish curry at Yul's restaurant in Bambury, the best
swahili coconut fish curry so far.
Bamburi at low tide, avoiding sea-urchins and strong sunshine
Having steak pieces on spike at Yul's Restaurant, lower them onto
400 degrees hot slab of stone.
But suddenly the inzees arrive. Trying to shoo them off.
Vipingo: the locals must break journey here on the road half way
from Mombasa to Malindi.
Mishkaki at the world famous Vipingo Tea Centre is a must; but
the phone was not working.
If you look closely, you can see the barbeque metal skewers are
really bicycle spokes.
How many miles do they have to be on the bicycle wheel before
they are ready for this purpose?
True recycling here! But the mishkaki tastes excellent with mandazi
and tangawizi drink. :-)
At "Ocean Sport Hotel", Watamu Bay, some tourists go
deep-sea fishing early in the morning.
This man caught a "sail fish". He said it was in the
sea after the land had disappeared from view.
Sun rise at Watamu Bay
Yours truly on an Indian style sofa-bed
Next door is Hemingway's hotel, a five star establishment with
prices to match.
Popular with white Kenyans from the Kenyan Highlands.
An Indian sofa-bed at Hemingway's
The old KSI mosque at Lamu seafront. When was it built? 1870?
One of the earliest KSI mosques, older than Zanzibar KSI mosque.
No KSI of Indian origin live or go to this mosque, but it has
many local worshipers
Prayers done in full view of the sea after the seafront roadway.
And sea breeze too.
Lamu alley parallel to the seafront walkway. People on donkeys
rush past in these alleys.
Smells of open gutters and donkey droppings.
At a Lamu corner shop selling groceries, kikapu (straw bags) and
sigiri (charcoal stove)
Stayed on second floor left hand windows. Low tide here. Drains
empty here also and go past the boats
Lamu seafront walkway with donkeys doing freight transport and
View of Lamu side from Shella Island, 20 minutes by boat from
Returning to Lamu on the hotel's small motor boat
Jan 17, 2005 7:51 pm
I flew into Zanzibar from Mombasa airport. It felt good to be
back to Zanzibar - Shangani suburb. It felt like coming back home.
have been away for two weeks. I was in Bamburi, hired a car and
so travelled into Mombasa town and around. Found fruits to eat,
mbooya, victoria, zambaraho (Jamboora), embay (mangoes) and red
dhizzy (red bananas).
of the old roads, including Ndia Ku, in old Mombasa are being
paved with pavers. Paid by EU (European Union) funding, that is
me as a tax payer in EU. So, those historic few streets around
Fort Jesus are looking better although they need to do something
about the open drains.
(mishkaki on the street pavement) is closed because the family
is gone to do their Hajj. I was disappointed.
evening a friend of mine and I drove to Light-House, parked our
car and walked to the big baobab tree to eat madafoo and charcoal
baked mohogo. We were waiting to see the sun go down. A VW combi
drove slowly past, with its roof raised up. 4 to 5 muzungus were
standing upright with their faces out looking at the people at
Light-House. I now know what giraffes feel when they are visited
by tourists! :-)
is the same, no changes. A few cases of shop robbery and petty
crime. Bustling city baking in 33 degrees centigrade.
Saturday (15 Jan), there was a mild earthquake in Zanzibar at
8.15 am, for about 20 seconds. Buildings trembled and people poured
out on streets. No damage heard of so far.
Jan 20, 2005 7:59 am
I took a 6 hour bus from Lamu via Malindi to Mombasa and caught
a flight from there to Zanzibar. The first half of the bus journey
was bone-juddering, as the road did not have tarmac. I saw a group
of hippos doing a swim dance in a water pool. The countryside there
has giraffe, buffalo and baboons but from the bus I saw only a large
baboon apparently doing "bus spotting" while sitting under
the shade of a road-side tree. The bus drove past at about 50 miles
per hour but I could almost swear it had a note pad to write down
the number plate of our bus!
Sunday 16, Jan, I booked the flight in Lamu but their computer
was off-line and so I could not get a confirmation number. The
computer showed there were four seats available. In Mombasa they
said the plane was full - 19 seater and one flight only per day.
I waited around for three hours and then got the stand by ticket
and had to hurry on-board in 15 minutes. Phew!
Zanzibar, this is my third day going through my emails. I had
2,500 junk emails to delete. I lost at least one software order
for GBP 150 - lost sales because I could not supply it fast enough.
I have had meetings with a prominent accountancy firm in Zanzibar
who wants to join Affilica. I have a finalisation meeting on Saturday,
as Friday is Hajj Eid holiday. Also, he wants me to do audit lecturing
as a joint venture, in March or April. Also, I have ripped out
Yellow pages listing of accountants in Nairobi to do a mail shot.
In Watamu, I have got friendly with the hotel management and am
taking an advert in their local community magazine. Through them
I hope to connect with the white professionals and businesses
based in Kenya highlands and Nairobi as they congregate in Watamu.
owner of the Italian ice-cream parlor on the beach in stone town
has become friendly with me. The family (mother, father, daughter)
want to sell up and they asked me if I can find them a buyer.
Interested in taking residence and ice-cream + restaurant in Zanzibar?
I introduced our Swaziland member to a Dar es Salaam corporate
law practice I met on my way in. So, there is a lot of business
networking happening with me.
Jan 20, 2005 12:10 pm
Last evening, I saw the sunset from an Italian pizza - ice cream
shop on the beach in stone town, near Serena Hotel. It was the best
sunset I saw in Zanzibar so far. It was cloudy with white cotton
ball clouds, but then when the sun got low, the cloud made a large
gap to reveal a large orange ball that slowly sank over the horizon
while the dhows with triangular sails criss-crossed the placid sea.
It was picture post-card stuff but I had not taken my camera with
me! I chatted to the Italian owners, the wife, husband and their
now (Thursday afternoon), there was a power cut while I wrote
this email. So, someone from the Internet cafe (without the coffee)
ran out, put petrol in their generator and after four minutes
the electric came on again. Power cuts happen at any time day